The Subtle Variations of 1950’s Sheath Dresses

dior's new look

Dior’s New Look

When you think of dresses in the 1950’s what do you imagine? Most people would think of the classic house wife  dress that Lucile Ball or Mary Tyler Moore wore  in their respective 1950’s TV roles with large, puffy, skirts and snug fitting blouses, paired with cute coordinating accessories and perfectly groomed hair. While this style of dress was certainly popular there is another style, the opposite look of the 1950’s, that has been overlooked until now. Because of TV shows like Mad Men and Pan Am the slim fitting 1950’s style sheath dress is just as popular as its full figured sibling.

This other silhouette of the ‘50s was somewhat opposite of the full skirted look, although the main features of the New Look remained. The bodice was the same – tailored, fitted and nipped in at the waist. But the skirt of this type of dress was very closely fitted to the body from the waist down. This was the lean sheath dress, also known as the wiggle dress.

1950's dress mad men dress

1950’s Sheath Dress

The bodice was usually tailored and either sleeveless or with short or elbow-length sleeves. The neckline was often a scoop or boat-neck. The skirt was what we’d call a pencil today. It curved over the hips and tapered down to mid-calf. There was a vent or kick-pleat added to the back of the skirt so the wearer was able to walk – that’s how fitted they were! Wiggle dresses zipped up the back. The bodices were often decorated with small collars and bows. The skirts often featured welt pockets on the sides or two oversized front patch pockets. Big buttons could be used to decorate the front too.

 The 1950’s Bell Shape Dress

Late 50's Bell Shape Dress

Late 50’s Bell Shape Dress

A trend that emerged towards the end of the decade was the bell dress – a kind of combination of the two skirt shapes. The bodice was tailored and fitted as usual, and could follow any of the bodice styles found in dresses. However, the skirt started out gathered at the waist, puffed out around the waist, and then tapered back in to be fitted at the calf, creating a bell-shaped skirt. It was often tied in front with a large fabric bow. By the late 50’s the shape of the bell tapered out only slightly creating a full skirt but not nearly as wide as circle skirt dresses.

 The 1950’s Corolla, Tulip, H, A and Y Lines

Dior, and many other fashion designers, started coming out with a new silhouette every season. Although they didn’t stray far from the New Look hourglass silhouette, they offered a slightly different shape each time – enough so that women were pressured to keep up. Although most women stuck with the basic full or fitted hourglass, the most fashionable would have a slightly different one to show off each year. Dior’s most well known collections were the Corolla (his debut) in 1947, the Tulip in 1953, and the H, A and Y lines of 1954-56.

Michael Kors Tulip Skirt Crepe Sheath DressBlack Chiffon Pencil Dress

Tulip Sheath Dress          H Line Dress
   By Design Dress   Polka-dot/Black Retro Flare Polka-dot Dress Top

 A-Line Dress                     Y-Line Dress
The Corolla was the basis for the New Look and was the main silhouette of the ‘50s. The Tulip look was a little bit more exaggerated. A Tulip dress was fitted. The bodice had a large boat-neck collar that emphasized the bust, the requisite tiny waist, and a very round hip bound inside a fitted pencil skirt.

A H-line dress was a little bit different. It was a fitted sheath again, but had a higher scoop neck and a dropped waist. The natural waist was still fitted and small, but the waist emphasized on the dress was much lower, making the silhouette straighter.

The A-line dress was very different – the bodice was very narrow, but the dress was shaped just like an A with a full pleated skirt and undefined waist.

The Y-line went back to the classic Dior silhouette with a fitted sheath, and an added large pointed collar and sleeves.

1950's dress

1957’s Dresses

Now that you know a little bit about the different variations of 1950’s sheath dresses you wont be able to look at a pencil or wiggle dress quite the same. I enjoy seeing the details on dresses in the 1950’s and guessing what Dior line inspired the design. It’s a little game to make your next vintage 50’s shopping trip a little more fun.

As always if you need a vintage style 1950’s full skirted New Look dress or one of the many variations of 1950’s sheath dresses look no further then the women’s 1950’s style dress shopping page or below:

Dance Floor Date Dress in Scarlet from ModCloth
 

Dance Floor Date Dress in Scarlet from ModCloth

$59.99

Buy at: ModCloth

Salty and Pepper Dress from ModCloth
 

Salty and Pepper Dress from ModCloth

$89.99

Buy at: ModCloth

Flair Maiden Dress
 

Flair Maiden Dress

$53.99

Buy at: ModCloth

Dance Floor Date Dress in Dots
 

Dance Floor Date Dress in Dots

$59.99

Buy at: ModCloth

V-neck Polka Dot Vintage Dress with Spaghetti Straps
 

V-neck Polka Dot Vintage Dress with Spaghetti Straps

$19.99

Buy at: Milanoo.com Ltd

1950s Style Black Satin Cocktail Swing Dress
 

1950s Style Black Satin Cocktail Swing Dress

$398.00

Buy at: UniqueVintage

Too Much Fun Dress in Blue Dots - Long
 

Too Much Fun Dress in Blue Dots - Long

$109.99

Buy at: ModCloth

Hell Bunny Red Tattoo Flocked Dress
 

Hell Bunny Red Tattoo Flocked Dress

$62.99

Buy at: Hot Topic

eShakti Women's Vintage two-tone cotton poplin dress
 

eShakti Women's Vintage two-tone cotton poplin dress

$79.95

Buy at: eShakti

eShakti Women's Vintage cotton poplin dress
 

eShakti Women's Vintage cotton poplin dress

$69.95

Buy at: eShakti

Unmatched Panache Dress
 

Unmatched Panache Dress

$99.99

Buy at: ModCloth

eShakti Women's Scallop neck fit-and-flare dress
 

eShakti Women's Scallop neck fit-and-flare dress

$59.95

Buy at: eShakti

1950s Style Light Blue Floral Cap Sleeve Bloomsbury Chiffon Swing Dress
 

1950s Style Light Blue Floral Cap Sleeve Bloomsbury Chiffon Swing Dress

$224.00

Buy at: UniqueVintage

You Totally Rockabilly Jumper
 

You Totally Rockabilly Jumper

$84.99

Buy at: ModCloth

Guest of Honor Dress in Rose Garden
 

Guest of Honor Dress in Rose Garden

$94.99

Buy at: ModCloth

Up, Opera, and Away Dress in Cream
 

Up, Opera, and Away Dress in Cream

$101.99

Buy at: ModCloth

Broaden Your Fleur-izons Dress
 

Broaden Your Fleur-izons Dress

$116.99

Buy at: ModCloth

The Keyhole to Success Dress
 

The Keyhole to Success Dress

$38.99

Buy at: ModCloth

About the Artist Dress in Aqua Plaid
 

About the Artist Dress in Aqua Plaid

$41.99

Buy at: ModCloth

About the Artist Dress in Grey
 

About the Artist Dress in Grey

$69.99

Buy at: ModCloth

CEO My Darling Dress
 

CEO My Darling Dress

$174.99

Buy at: ModCloth

Era of Romance Dress
 

Era of Romance Dress

$119.99

Buy at: ModCloth

Pleasing to the Aye Dress
 

Pleasing to the Aye Dress

$189.99

Buy at: ModCloth

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About Debbie Sessions

Debbie Sessions is passionate about wearing history through fashion. She and her husband, Oscar, have turned their hobby into a career by teaching others how to re-create vintage style with affordable new vintage inspired clothing and accessories. We connect shoppers to the best vintage inspired clothing, shoes and accessories and teach fashion history as it was worn by everyday people. Need more help? Contact us anytime.