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Summer in the 1920s was a time for socializing at afternoon teas, luncheons, and picnics. Men and women avoided the heat by wearing cooler, lighter fabrics much like today. Clothing colors were also light and airy. The Great Gatsby, having taken place during the summer of 1922, makes several references to Gatsby’s clothing:
“Gatsby, in a white flannel suit, silver shirt and gold-coulored tie”
“…his gorgeous pink rag of a suit…”
“…Carmel colored suit…”
Putting together a summer outfit with light colors can be fun and fairly easy.
Gatsby Suit
While not many men today would be willing to wear a pink suit, a wealthy man in Gatsby’s time frequently used fashion to set himself apart from normal society. Color palettes of pinks, yellows, and blues set the mood for summer’s merriment. The most plentiful color choice was off-white or ivory suit made of flannel (the most affordable) or linen (a wealthy man’s choice). Some men didn’t like linen because it wrinkled easily, while others thought wrinkles showed off a men’s willingness to be casual, free spirited, or “sporty.”
Suit jackets were usually single breasted with minimal buttons, and had an overall fitted appearance. Pants were held high on the waist and usually pleated at the top and cuffed at the bottom.
Vest – A vest for day wear, if not designed to match the suit, would be of a similar shade of color such as tan with an off-white suit, or a pastel color with a darker suit. Buy 1920s style vests here.
Shirt – A typical button down 1920s men’s dress shirt in white would be most fashionable and comfortable. However, a pink shirt also makes that extra statement of confidence and fashion forwardness. Buy 1920s style men’s shirts here.
Tie – Bow ties were more common than neck ties in summer. Bright reds, blues, greens, and pinks in various kinds of geometric patterns made bowties the one accessory that was allowed to deviate from an otherwise one-note color palette. Bow ties were thinner and a bit longer in the 20’s than they are today. Buying a modern self tie bow tie and tying it yourself allows you to adjust for a longer length.
Pocket Square – Also known as a handkerchief, the Pocket Square was the second spot of color on a man’s summer outfit. Usually they matched the bow tie in color if not in pattern as well.
Suspenders – Also called braces. Light colored suspenders were necessary for a light colored suit. Dark colored suspenders would show through light linen jackets too much. Shop men’s accessories for suspenders.
Hat – Opt for a straw boater or panama hat. The icing on the cake and the most distinguishing accessory for a summer outfit was the straw hat. The straw Boater with a 4 inch brim, or the Straw Skimmer with a 3 inch brim, were made of thick straw and woven into a stiff, flat topped, breathable hat. They were highly durable and worn by all classes.
The Straw Panama hat, on the other hand, was generally afforded only by the upper class. Hand made in Ecuador, the fine weaving of straw made a lightweight alternative to the Boater and Skimmer. It was also packable, meaning it could be rolled up and kept in a suitcase or pocket, unrolled, and easily popped back into shape. The early style of a Panama, was the Optimo shape. named for the rolling crease down the middle of the crown.
Both styles of hat were wrapped in a 3 inch band of fabric. Black was the color of choice in the first half on the ’20s, followed by brighter colors (often associated with a college or sporting team) in the later half of the ’20s.
Shoes – Needless to say, white, ivory, tan, or brown and white leather dress shoes and spectators were the most appropriate. Read more about men’s shoes of the 1920’s here.
Start shopping for all these items and more over at the 1920’s Men’s Clothing Shop:
Debbie Sessions has been teaching fashion history and helping people dress for vintage themed events since 2009. She has turned a hobby into VintageDancer.com with hundreds of well researched articles and hand picked links to vintage inspired clothing online. She aims to make dressing accurately (or not) an affordable option for all. Oh, and she dances too.