Boardwalk Empire: 1920's Mens Suit Costume GuideThe Vintage Dancer

Those sharply dressed 1920′s gangsters on Boardwalk Empire (HBO TV Show) are the envy of men’s fashionistas and period costume admirers alike. If only I had the same budget as the costume designers who make custom wool suiting and hand tailor clothing for each actor. Alas I don’t have that budget and I’m guessing you don’t either. Fear not! You can get the classic 1920′s men’s clothing look with some carefully chosen modern clothes.

1920 Men’s Suit

Boardwalk Empire: 1920s Mens Suit Guide The best male dresser on the show goes to the character Nucky Thompson. He is a style icon for all that wealth and prosperity could afford you in 1920. He and most of his associates were fond of striped wool suits. They were not quite pin stripes as they were a bit wider and more pronounced. Blue stripes, grey stripes and brown stripes were equally popular. The suits buttoned up with 3 or 4 single breasted and double breasted suit jackets. The buttons came up quite high on the jacket and gave way to peak lapels. Suits always had a matching high V neck vest and flat front trousers with narrow legs. The pants came down to the ankles, which is very short by today’s standards.

Tip: Find a striped suit that fits you a bit on the small size (the 1920s suits were very well tailored with no extra room for unrefined movement.) Pinstripe suits will work if you can’t find the wider 1/4 inch stripes. You can also wear colorful windowpane plaid suits. The men on Boardwalk Empire wore lots of colorful suits and so can you.

Boardwalk Empire: 1920s Mens Suit Guide This striped suit sold at womenssuits.com (yes, they have great men’s suits too. FREE with code: FREESHIPUPS) is a great choice for a modern meets 1920′s suit costume. It features 3 buttons and a notch high lapel. This is an excellent suit choice for you.

This check plaid sport coat is even better, except it doesn’t have matching pants. The lapels are higher and the color just screams Nucky Thompson. Since it doesn’t have matching pants you can wear solid brown pants instead for a slightly more casual look.

Hopefully the suit you choose has a matching vest. If not then do your best to find one in the same color and shade. With all the changes to vests over the years modern vests do quite well for a 1920′s look. You could even skip the vest if you keep you suit jacket buttoned all the way up. If you go without a jacket then you will certainly need to wear a vest. Men did not wear dress shirts alone till the 1950′s so do your best to find a matching vest.

A good source for reproduction men’s suits is Reconstructing History.

1920 Men’s Shirts

Collar Bar

Speaking of shirts this may be the biggest challenge for you. Most men in the early 1920′s were wearing dress shirts with club collars or round collars. They were usually detachable white collars that were washed separately and buttoned on a small round collar shirt (similar to a Mandarin style shirt.) Shirt collars were either lined in stiff material or left unlined. The unlined, cloth collars, could look a bit unruly so to keep them looking good tie bars were worn. Nucky’s was custom made for the show but you can find one at formal men’s stores or a local vintage /antique store.

PremierClothing has an excellent tutorial on how to turn a acched collar dress shirt into a detachbale collar dress shirt.

Ready made detachable collars can be found in the UK at Darcy Clothing.

Homemade Club Collar

If you can’t find a club collar shirt you can either make one by cutting off the points on a standard dress shirt or just wearing a point collar dress shirt instead. Pointed collar shirts were about to hit the fashion scene so you are only a few years early for a man on the Boardwalk. The other element of the 1920′s shirt, besides the contrasting white collar, was the contrasting white french cuffs. These thick white cuffs came with button holes for a pair of snazzy cuff links. If you wear a standard dress shirt and want to wear cuff links simply poke a hole where the cuff button normally is.

Striped Shirts

The best part about 1920′s shirts were the vivid color choices. White was boring. Pastels yellows, blues, greens and even pink solids were common as well as a mix of these colors in 1/4 inch stripes. Shirts always had white cuffs and collars. Have fun choosing your shirt color!

Paul Fredrick Men’s Clothes has many shirts with club collars or pointed collars and french cuffs to choose from.

1920 Men’s Neckties and Bow Ties

The other pop of collar was a man’s necktie and pocket square (handkerchief.) Neckties came in standard long silk ties or festive fluffy bow ties. I say fluffy bow ties because they are shorter and fatter then today’s pre-tied bow ties. Get a self tied bow tie and learn to tie it yourself for a more authentic 1920′s look. Both neckties and bow ties were full of color and often clashed with shirts and suits. Small dots and thick stripes were two favorite bow tie and necktie patterns. Be bold, be daring, show off your style with more color. Beautiesltd.com is an excellent shop to find any color or pattern tie you could ever want.

1920 Men’s Hats and Shoes

1920s Homburg Hat

Occasionally you see a Boardwalk Empire man wearing a hat. Popular hats of the time were the Homburg, the Bowler or Derby, the Fedora and for summer the Boater hat. You can read all about 1920′s men’s hats here. And for shoes visit this page on 1920′s mens shoe styles.

Now that you know what to look for you can raid your closet, head to the thrift store, or look at all of the new 1920s style men’s clothes I have found online for you:

Satin Stripes White Club Collar & French Cuffs Dress Shirt

$30.00

The old school club collar with rounded points is enjoying a resurgence in popularity due to the 1920s mens fashion come back [Read more]

Store: Paul Fredrick MenStyle

Club Collar Grid Dress Shirt

$30.00

Used to artful advantage, seasonal color is the perfect pick-me-up for traditionally blue patterned dress shirts. The old school club collar perfectly balances the lively a... [Read more]

Store: Paul Fredrick MenStyle

Trim Fit White Club Collar & French Cuffs Dress Shirt

$40.00

Popular again, the old style club collar offers timeless attitude in polished white collar and cuff style. [Read more]

Store: Paul Fredrick MenStyle

White Club Collar & French Cuffs Dress Shirt

$50.00

Fittingly the first recorded use of spring green as a color name was mid 1700's. It was Crayola;&reg that actually dubbed this color seafoam. No matter the name, it cap... [Read more]

Store: Paul Fredrick MenStyle

European Style Alternating Satin Stripe Dress Shirt

$25.00

A multi striped shirt the Great Gatsby would be proud of. [Read more]

Store: Paul Fredrick MenStyle

1920's Inspired Satin Stripe White Collar and French Cuff Dress Shirt

$40.00

1920s Style white collar and French cuff shirt. [Read more]

Store: Paul Fredrick MenStyle

1920's Ideal Mens Shirt- White Club Collar & French Cuffs Dress Shirt

$40.00

Popular again, the old style club collar offers timeless attitude in polished white collar and cuff style. [Read more]

Store: Paul Fredrick MenStyle

Windowpane Double-Breasted Wool Suit

$280.00

The distinctive attitude of a double-breasted suit is as relevant today as it was thirty-years ago a la Gordon Gekko. Signature quality detail including better half canvas ... [Read more]

Store: Paul Fredrick MenStyle

Pioneer Round Collar (Blue)

$209.99

Only a brave fashion leader would wear a collarless shirt in the 1920's. Go ahead be brave and show off your Gatsby spirit. [Read more]

Store: Zappos.com

Pinstripe Wool Three-Button Suit

$230.00

A touch of unexpected color (in this case purple) has the power to transform the ordinary pinstripe into a very singular suiting choice. Signature quality tailoring includi... [Read more]

Store: Paul Fredrick MenStyle

Glen Plaid Wool Flannel Suit

$250.00

The warm, brushed softness of Super 100's wool flannel tailored meticulously for maximum comfort and an optimal fit. [Read more]

Store: Paul Fredrick MenStyle

Men's 4 Piece 4 Button Sharkskin Pattern Suit 1920s Style

$335.00

Sharkskin was a common fabric in the 20's. 4 Piece Suit with 4 Buttons. Feature high lapels which are very 1920's. [Read more]

Store: Womensuits.com

Signature 2-Button Wool Suit- Cream/Black Plaid with Rust Deco

$299.00

2-Button. Merino wool with exceptional softness and an uncompromising fit. Self-fabric scalloped facing, full Bemberg lining, soft shoulders. Signature suits have buttons s... [Read more]

Store: Jos. A. Bank

Signature Gold 2-Button Wool Suit- Grey Touch Plaid

$498.00

2-Button center-vent jacket for classic styling. Year-round fabric has fluid drape and rich hand for classic styling. Sleeve constructed for the addition of custom working ... [Read more]

Store: Jos. A. Bank

1920's Sharkskin Fabric Summer Suit

$199.99

Another complete Sharkskin 2 Button 3pc Vested Suit for a 1920's Boardwalk Empire Costume. [Read more]

Store: Sean John

1920's Style Double Breasted Men's Suit

$275.00

Designer Men's Suit Style Description Double Breasted Suit with Peak Lapels. Straited Pattern. Fully Lined. Dry clean only. The suits run true to size. Please choose the si... [Read more]

Store: Womensuits.com

Men's Classic 4 Button Wide Leg Suit (L1232)

$315.00

Wide legs for an accurate 1920's look with windowpane pattern suit for even more roaring 20's fashion,. [Read more]

Store: Womensuits.com

Signature 2-Button Wool Suit- Dark Blue Plaid

$298.00

Signature Classic Superfine Merino Wool Suit in 2-Button. Made from superfine merino wool for exceptional softness and an uncompromising fit. Self-fabric scalloped facing, ... [Read more]

Store: Jos. A. Bank

Men's 1920's Stripe Suit- Very Classy

$199.00

2 Piece Suit Single Breasted, 3 Buttons, Multi Stripe Pattern. Ideal for mens summer wear. [Read more]

Store: WomenSuits.com

Haggar Suit Separate 2 Button Gatsby Jacket

$79.99

Suit separate 2 button Gatsby jacket features 2 exterior pockets, 4 interior pockets and back pleat. [Read more]

Store: Boscov's Department Stores

Men's Suits 3 Piece Stripe Stacy Adams Suit 1920's Gangster

$309.00

Gangsters were prevalent in 1920's even though the 1940's take the spot light. [Read more]

Store: Womensuits.com

Roaring 20's Pinstripe Costume Suit

$39.99

Mens polyester pinstripe suit has two button front, decorative front pockets, and matching suit pants. [Read more]

Store: ElectriqueBoutique.com

1920's Gastby Pink Men's 3 Button Shadow Stripe Suit

$322.50

3 Piece Suit with 3 Buttons. Satin Lapels, Embossed Shadow Stripe Jacket. Vest with Lapels with Piping Detail. [Read more]

Store: Womensuits.com

White Linen Pants

$34.00

White pants for your summer Gatsby party. Solid linen pant features a button/zip fly closure, slash front pockets and belt loops. [Read more]

Store: Sean John

Wide Leg 1920s Oxford Bags Trousers

$29.95

Ideal late 1920's wide leg, oxford bad, style pants. Hem them to your own length. [Read more]

Store: DanceStore.com

Signature Year-Round Box Check Pleated Trousers

$135.00

Premium wool works year-round. Button-through back besom pocket, premium pocketing, half-lined to the knee. Unfinished bottoms for altering ease. Dry Clean. Imported. [Read more]

Store: Jos. A. Bank

1920's Oxford Bags Mens Pants

$29.95

Ideal 1920;s wide leg, oxford bad, style pants. Hem them to your own length. [Read more]

Store: DanceStore.com

1920's Suit Vest

$49.98

Basic day wear vest in brown. [Read more]

Store: Macys.com

1920's Spectator Two Tone Tuxedo Shoes

$174.50

Fun two toned oxford shoes. Available in black, gray, burgundy or brown with white accents. Available in a large selection of sizes including wide. [Read more]

Store: Tuxedos Direct

1920's Mens Two Tone Spectator Shoes- Cheap!

$14.99

Black and white oxford style shoes have a 1 1/2 inch heel, 1/2 inch platform, squared toe and lace up front. Great for any 20's costume. [Read more]

Store: ElectriqueBoutique.com

1920's High Fashion Two Tone Wing Tip After Six Tuxedo Shoes

$125.00

Perfect black and white lace up, man-made patent leather finished with classic wing tip detail. The height of old-world cool. This shoe's cushion insoles make it super comf... [Read more]

Store: Tuxedos Direct

Wool-Feel 3 Piece Men's Suit with Classic Pinstripes (P1062)

$289.90

Designer Men's Suit Style Description 3 Piece Suit, 3 Buttons with Classic Pinstripes. Wool-Feel Poly Rayon. Fully Lined. Dry clean only. The suits run true to size. Please... [Read more]

Store: WomenSuits.com

Stacy Adams Men's Gatsby 1920's Cap Toe Oxford Shoes

$60.47

The crocodile-embossing and perforation accents on this soft leather design lend a little additional style to this already handsome look. The cushioned insole and smooth l... [Read more]

Store: Endless.com